Timing chain and tensioner

Moto Guzzi Quota 1000 and Quota 1100 ES models

At around 38,000 miles, I started hearing the timing chain rattling about inside the timing chest. It didn't rattle all the time, but seemed to be most prominent when decelerating from higher RPMs. I decided it was time to put in a new tensioner. Instead of using the stock tensioner from Guzzi, I opted for the common (and popular) bow-type tensioner. It is less expensive and places more pressure on the chain, too. Also, I decided that if I was going that far into the timing chest, that I might as well replace the timing chain. Replacement of the gasket, front main seal, and O-ring were givens.

Replacement is very straightforward and simple. But, do keep the following in mind.

• The rotor for the alternator simply slides off the front of the crankshaft. It is not pressed on. Very easy!
• In addition to standard mechanic tools, a very deep 32 mm socket is needed to remove the nut securing the crankshaft gear to the crankshaft. A normal deep-well socket is not long enough. Instead, purchase 2 deep well sockets, cut the end off of one and weld it on to the end of the other. It is probably best to purchase standard sockets (not impact sockets) as the wall thickness of the impact socket will have to be turned down to fit the available space inside the crankshaft gear.
• Before removing the three gears, be sure to align the mark on the camshaft gear with the mark on the crankshaft gear by rotating the crankshaft (easier if both spark plugs are removed). Once aligned, do NOT rotate either the crankshaft or the camshaft. If you do, you'll mess up the timing. When replacing the gears, make sure to keep the marks aligned. I found it easiest to keep the chain and gears together as I removed them. Then, I laid them flat on a rag and carefully replaced the chain...keeping my gears in line. This really isn't very difficult if a little care is taken.
• The bow-type tensioner is secured differently than the stock tensioner...utilizing the two existing bolts that already secure the front main bearing to the block. When the stock tensioner is removed, however, you'll need to replace one of the bolts with a shorter one. I just matched up the length with another bolt I had in my stash.
• Both the crankshaft securing nut and the camshaft securing nut require about 111 foot pounds of torque. So make sure you have a torque wrench sufficient to the task.
• The nut securing the rotor of the alternator to the crankshaft does not require very much torque. All it does is keep the rotor secured to the crankshaft. 25 - 30 foot pounds is plenty (I've not seen an official torque specification from Guzzi for that nut).
• Do apply anti-seize to the threads of the three bolts that secure the stator to the front of the timing chest AND the four bolts that secure the plastic alternator cover. These have a tendency to corrode and anti-seize is cheap insurance.
• In retrospect, my timing chain did not require replacement and I could have gotten away with simply replacing the tensioner. But, I didn't want the bike to be down very long and ordered all the parts beforehand.
• This was my first timing doing the job. It took me 3 hours, 15 minutes - start to finish.